Binondo Heritage Pancit Crawl

Photos by  GoManila, MyrenFrancis and Isipanini

Videos by  GoManila

I am sure that you already know that Binondo is the oldest Chinatown in the world. It was established at the turn of the 16th century and became an integral part of commerce, culture, and food in the Philippines' early history. But throughout its 400-year existence, Binondo developed a culturally diverse culinary identity with a unique mix of southeastern Fujian dishes with Spanish names and Tagalog taste, these ultimately gave it a cuisine with a strong Chinese-Filipino identity.

Pancit is the most popular acculturated dish of Filipinos.  It was introduced to the Philippines by Chinese merchants via trading hubs like Binondo. These merchants eventually settled in these areas and established various businesses like small eateries that sell cooked, ready-to-eat meals like rice bowls and noodles to other Chinese merchants and Filipino workers. These eateries are called panciteria. Filipinos eventually accepted this cuisine and became part of our indigenized culinary identity. Pancit remained exclusively attached to noodles and panciteria to restaurants that sell pancit. Some of the best panciterias during the Spanish Colonial Era were located in Binondo. It is still true today, as some of the oldest and most famous panciterias are still in Binondo serving regular clients and food tourists alike.

And what better way to celebrate the National Eat Your Pancit Day on March 11 and the upcoming Filipino Food Month in April, than to finally publish this year-old article about us strolling around Binondo to visit some of the oldest panciterias and experience pancit history.

LOMI
Ilang-ilang Restaurant (since 1910)

551 Ilang-ilang Street, Binondo, Manila

Be patient if you find yourself lost on your way to Ilang-ilang Restaurant. I almost always get lost every time I go there. And we also did, this time, but we persevered. Hahaha! No one can blame you because it is hidden in an obscure side street right in the heart of the warehouse district in Binondo. Ilang-lang got its name from the eskinita where it is located. The restaurant dates back to 1910 and is the second oldest restaurant still in operations in the Philippines. 

We got to Ilang-ilang an hour before lunch and the restaurant was empty. But it almost always is. I don't remember it being jampacked with people, but the staff said that their business comes from catering, deliveries, and of course, the regulars, so no need to worry.

One of the dishes that Ilang-ilang is known for is their Lomi. It reminds me of why I like the Binondo version better than that of Lipa City - it reminds me of family. My Dad Ed, who worked for a shipping company in San Fernando Street, would bring lomi from Ilang-ilang for pasalubong for his kids during paydays. We would then have this hearty soup for dinner with Kikiam, pork Asado, and a whole lot of chili sauce. It not only warms the stomach, but also the heart.   

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PANCIT CANTON with ASADO
New Toho Food Center (since 1866)

422-424 Tomas Pinpin Street, Binondo, Manila

Many historical figures fell victim to the historical accuracy versus actuality dilemma. And no amount of written history or anecdotes spared New Toho Food Center, the oldest restaurant in the country, from this predicament. Previously known as To Ho Antigua Panciteria, New Toho's signboard says it's been around since 1888. However, according to Felice Prudente Sta. Maria, in her 2006 book "The Governor-General's Kitchen, Philippine Culinary Vignettes and Period Recipes, 1521-1935", a restaurant called "Antigua" had been founded by Manuel "Po Kong" Bautista in 1866.

There have been stories connecting Toho to historical figures. There is a story about Andres Bonifacio, they say that he had his usual pancit canton and asado before he attended the founding meeting of the Katipunan in No. 72 Azcarraga. There was also this story about Jose Rizal dropping by Toho for a plate of pancit canton before giving his last letter to Leonor Rivera before he left for Spain. Add those to a thousand and one more stories connecting Toho to key historical figures and events, and we have the testament of the panciteria's legacy. 

Despite existing for more than a century and a half, Toho takes pride that a lot of the favorite menu items remained the same and are kept. We actually very much enjoyed our visit to Toho and we can accurately say that we love it.  

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MIKI-BIHON GUISADO
Ramon Lee's Panciteria (since 1929)

504 Ronquillo Street, Santa Cruz, Manila

On my first visit, I asked an old waiter if it is true that the former dictator, Ferdinand E. Marcos, was a frequent customer at their restaurant. He proudly showed a picture of Mr. Marcos with his law school fraternity brothers, having a fun time at the table. He then told me that they used to deliver Pancit Miki-Bihon Guisado and Fried Chicken to Malacanang because those were Mr. Marcos' favorites. I happily smiled at the irony and ordered both. After, I went to EDSA Dos. 

Founded by Ramon Lee, his panciteria remained a fixture in Santa Cruz since 1929. It is located in Ronquillo Street, a few backflips away from Santa Cruz Church and the other end of Ongpin Street. Generations of pancit lovers come here for their share of Mr. Lee's legendary miki-bihon Guisado and his wife's fried chicken, recipes which have changed little over the decades.

That is why we were asked by the waiter what to order, the proud Ilocano in me, almost blurted out, "Isang one point five at yung order ni Macoy!" 

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MAKI MI
Ongpin Mañosa Restaurant Co. (since 1942)

926 Ongpin Street, Santa Cruz, Manila

To end our day-long pancit binge around Chinatown, I decided to take the Pancituristas to a certified tourist trap. Ongpin Mañosa is the oldest panciteria along Ongpin Street and is also one of the most popular stops on any food tour in Chinatown. We arrived at the tail-end of snack service, meaning, at the beginning of dinner service. As expected, it was jam-packed with people. So we decided to stay outside for a bit, waiting to be seated. 

Maki mi is Mañosa's crown jewel, and they make it like no other. Maki  Mi is a soup made with fluffy tenderloin cooked in a brown pork broth thickened by tapioca starch. Beaten eggs are added for good measure. It is then poured over fresh egg noodles and topped with chopped spring onions. Just look at the pictures.

At the entrance of the restaurant, there is a glass window. You can see and watch how the cook prepares Ongpin Mañosa's signature dish. It is very inviting to watch because the window acts like a showcase of how slick every order of noodles is made. By the way, mañosa means slick in Spanish.

So that concludes our Binondo Heritage Pancit Crawl. I really suck at ending articles but what I can say is that Filipinos love to eat out, though we almost always downplay it. The restaurant landscape is always changing. And because of the pandemic a lot more pressure is added on restaurants, especially the small ones. Let's be thankful that these restaurants stood the test of time. Some of them faced a world war and countless civil and political unrest, yet they persevered and continue to serve us great food and a lot of stories. Let's support them. Let's order a plate of miki-bihon or a bowl of maki, maybe by doing so, the next generation can have their chance to enjoy their own Binondo Heritage Pancit Crawl. 

(o di ba ang cheesy)